Wednesday 30 September 2015

LM#100 - Silverado corset muslin #2

Hello friends!

I tell you, this corset sewing business has been just awesome! I am really enjoying myself and learning lots along the way.





After making some small adjustments to my first muslin, I cut out all (32!) new pieces for the second one. I used some poly-blend upholstery fabric for the outside, and plain cotton muslin for the lining. I tried it on midway, and didn't feel it was the perfect fit. However, a corset without boning is a different animal to a finished one, so despite seeing some points for improvement, I decided to finish it just to get some practice with the grommets/eyelets, the waist tape, lining and spiral steel.


Adding the waist stay.

I used continous spiral steel boning, cut and tipped them myself. It was not hard at all, and I recommend getting this opposed to the pre-cut lenghts. Cheaper, too! For this corset I used three meters of spiral steel.
I didn't think of ordering flat steel boning for the back, so I had to improvise. I used hacksaw blades with the teeth sanded off, and it worked fine for the outer edge, but the one inside of the eyelets (if that makes sense) needs to go. If you look closely at the side view, you can see that my back looks very straight where there should be a hollow. The blade is flexible, but still too straight and broad for that placement. There's actually room behind it, and I can press it in with a finger...



Uhm...is that a baseball bat up your back?


I am quite pleased with the fit. When I tried it without the boning, it seemed too long because it doubled over itself at the waist, and it was also very loose at the bust. I switched from the A-cup bust gores to the B-cup on this muslin, and debated whether I should switch back again. I ended up keeping the Bs.





After inserting all the boning, I see that the length is perfect and the extra room in the bust allows for tightening at the waist. Some reviews of this pattern claims that the bust gores are "all wrong" but I got my own opinion on this matter. I think, the gores are not meant for the boobage but rather for the ribs. They start just at the edge of my ribcage, and give me room to take a full breath (high in my lungs) and there is no excessive compression or hot spots over my ribs at all. My bust is nicely cradled within the corset, and there is no "spillage".
If I am to be very critical, the outer gore could use just a teeny tiny adjustment to make it a tad more close fitting and give it a more correct curve.


I am also a bit bothered by the way the bottom front edge sticks out, although this is probably invisible when wearing a gown (or even just the undergarments). When ordering my supplies, I was tempted to get a spoon busk, but some say they are notoriously uncomfortable. I opted for the regular straight steel busk for this first corset, but I *need* to try the spoon busk some time. Love the shape it gives!





I can rather easily-ish lace this corset all shut, and it gives me a 27" waist, so a 3-4" reduction.
I have at least an inch more of squish, but I am ok with the reduction that this corset gives me.

Now that I know I can tackle this pattern, I am itching to get swinging with my Belle Coutil fabric, the lace and the nice stuff. It's so gorgeous!!!! (and I am terrified of ruining it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
I think I'll do one more muslin, though...




By the way, does anyone know if you should pretreat your corset coutil? I pretreat all my fabric, but seeing that a corset is not to be washed, do you still need the pretreating bit? (Not being lazy, just being utterly insane, thinking my washing machine will mince it. I think I need wine.)






8 comments:

  1. Looking good! You are very good at being patient, working through the mock ups before cutting into the pretty fabric, it took me many sad failed projects to learn that skill :) I still hate making muslins and mock-ups, but they are always worth it in the end!

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    1. Thank you Bianca :) I usually hate mock-ups too, especially for dresses.... But this was nothing but fun!

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  2. Looking good so far! I made some corsets in the pasts and it's really fun to do. Nowadays I don't feel the urge to make one myself, but still like them.

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    1. Thanks Anthea :) I'd love to see your corsets! I really got the bug now :) I want one in every color...

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  3. This is looking fabulous! I can't wait to see your finished version.

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    1. Thank you! Waiting for some more supplies, and then it's onto the real deal :D

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  4. Very nice indeed! It's so true about the difference between the boned and unboned corset. Back in the day when I used to make corsets I always used to bone the corsets before deciding on major alterations. About washing the coutil, I'd wash it, just to get any shrinkage done. I don't trust that dry cleaning won't cause shrinkage. Another thing is that you might decide somewhere along the line that you'd rather wash it than dry clean it. I read somewhere online, can't remember when now as it's been at least 10 years, that washing the corset and letting it dry either on a corset stand or your own body will mould it nicely, and you'll get the lovely curves you see in original Victorian corsets. Mind you, I never tried it myself, so I can't testify to it. I always wanted to build a corset with corded bust and embroidery/flossing. Even started one, but wasn't happy with the fabric so it ended in the bin. Also, thanks for the fabric and knitting book! I haven't blogged about it yet, as I've been insanely busy lately, but the fabric has been earmarked for a set of summer jammies :)

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    1. Thank you Suna! I grew som testicles (not really...) and decided to toss my coutil in the washer. It survived. I was of course being a silly woman :/
      Glad to hear the fabric and book arrived safely, hope you enjoy it :)

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