I traced the pattern in a size 6, based on my bust measurement. This way the dress would be proportionate to my upper body, and fit through the shoulders, neck opening etc.
|Final fabric sample.|
Earlier, I often chose pattern size based on my waist measurement, and ended up with more fitting issues in the bodice as it would be too big. Patterns with a 30" waist is usually for a 39" bust, or there abouts. If I were to follow my measurements for the waist with this pattern, I would have gone with a size 10, which is for a 30 1/2 " waist (my actual waist measure). The finished garment would then end up with a 40 1/2" bust, and a very dissapointed seamstress.
I have a small bust and narrow hips, so in this equation it is my waist that is unproportionate, and knowing this makes fitting more easy for me now. Knowing your body's uniqe caracteristics and proportions can help you tremendously.
So this is Ceylon size 6 right out of the envelope. As you can see, it is a close fitting garment, but I honestly didn't expect it to fit my waist without alterations. I will be wearing appropriate undergarments with this dress, and I don't think I will add much to the waist. I want it to be "hugging" but not restrictive.
Speaking of waist, there is quite a dramatic shaping in the midriff section, and I think that curve is slightly off in my muslin. It hits just below my natural waist, and rides up, creating a crease (see picture above).
I am a bit unsure whether I should shorten the midriff, move the curve in the midriff, or shorten the back piece and thus raising the waistline.
The sleeves are obviously to tight, and I might scoop out the armscye just a little bit in the back. I was also wondering if I should broaden the shoulders half an inch, so that the sleeve seam would hit further out, but I don't know if I need to. The puffed sleeve heads blur the lines, and my shoulders are plenty broad enough, and I might not need to emphasize that trait any more.
So, there it is! I really like the dress, dropped waist and all. I also quite dig the zipper option, allthough the final Sew for Cotton-version will have buttons. I might make a wearable muslin next, with a zipper closure.
As always, your valued opinions are most welcome below ;)