I went through my wardrobe recently, and sorted my trousers. Turns out, I have two pairs that can be classified as "out-of the-house" pants. And then there are the ones that are stricktly for home-alone use (indoors, definitely NOT beyond the garden borders), also two pairs. One of which is a 15 year old linen cargo thing. Just pathetic. And when I realized that my newest pair was bought in 2012, it is even more pathetic. I guess I don't have to tell you that I hate shopping for clothes?
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| Butterick 5895 |
So I decided to make some effort to change this sad state of my trouser drawer.
I went through my pattern stash, and didn't find anything bifurcated, but then I remembered a pdf I bought on sale sometime last year, the Gertie capri and top, Butterick #5895. Great!
I did a quick search online to see if there was any bad rap, but not much turned up. Tasha from By Gum By Golly has done some intense work with this pattern here and here, and her last pair looked awesome! I was sold, and promtly printed out my pattern. If you are fitting pants, and having issues, Tashas posts linked above, are great, btw! Lots of tips and thoughts on fitting.
I went straight for size 14, and made it up with no alterations. I expected to muslin a great deal, so I just picked some unexciting grey polyester fabric from the stash and got to work. The pants sewed up in no time, all the pieces fit together beautifully and the instructions were clear, no nonsense. (After the Salme playsuit pocket ordeal, this was just pure sewing pleasure!)
As I expected, my first pair was on the small side, but they did zip up. The general shape wasn't all that bad, but needed some adjustments. The side seams were pulling to the back, telling me that the back pieces needed a bit more width up on top, towards the sides. There was excess fabric at the hips that needed to be pinched out, and the mid/lower thighs were too tight. There was some fabric pooling near the crotch, and also under the butt, I suspect because of the tight thighs.
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| Very tight in the waist and the mid-thigh. The fabric is also aweful as it highlights every lump and bump... |
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| It is a bit hard to see, but the side seam gets pulled backwards, taking the pocket with it, causing creases. |
I sized my pattern pieces up one size, and shaved off a little on the hip curve. I added some extra on the back pieces at the sides. I also lowered the front crotch curve, and tinkered with the back crotch curve, too.
The second pair was cut, this time I used some silver-striped black fabric I found in a remnant bin. It was super wide, and I suspect it's for upholstery. Just a crazy blend of cotton, viscose, polyester and lurex. The stripes were actually horisontal, but I decided to try using the weft as the grainline. I don't know how this effects the garment, so a working experiment! As the sewing went on, I was really loving these pants! They looked rather smashing, and after setting the zipper and trying them on I was really pleased! So much so that I had to quickly finish the insides where I still could, to make them a wearable muslin.
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| They even go with my red blouse! |
I still think my pants could use some more work. They are a tad bit baggy around the crotch, but overall, they are comfortable, and fit quite nicely. I think I can pinch out a smidge more on the side seams at the hip, there seams to be a little excess there even when I'm sitting down.
I didn't think I would suit them, but I've worn them out already, and really like them. After wearing them a couple of times, the fabric has relaxed a bit and is not restrictive. The pants really goes with everything, too! And silver pinstripes? Yup, totally partyworthy :D
I've had my fears about sewing (fitted) pants, but this was such a nice experience. I love this style, the pants are easy to use with modern tops and tees, and of course the classic 50s style with a sleeveless tie top or a peasant style blouse.
I hope to continue to perfect these pants, and having more of them in my closet!
Oooo, maybe I'll make jeans now!!!!
