So I've just spent my afternoon with my bodice muslin. I sewed it up yesterday, and was just able to briefly put it on before I left for work. Today I got a better feel for it, and I must say it needs some work.
Here is what it looked like, right off the bat (please pardon the tragic sweatpants):
For starters, that neckline is tight! I could hardly pin it together without gagging. Some of this, however would be due to the fact that I didn't clip the seam allowance and turn it in. This would have given a more true picture of it, because looking at the seam line there, it looks kind of ok (placement wise). Maybe a bit high in front, though. The 29" waist of the bodice is properly mocking my 30" (firmly controlled) waist here, and is too tight. The darts up front seems to go too high up, but I don't really know if they are supposed to hit the apex of the bust, or not.
To fix the waist issue, I first tried letting the side seams out by half of the allowance. That should give nearly 3 cm extra (1.1inches), but once I had made the correction the whole thing went kind of baggy on me.
There is rather a lot of extra fabric pooling on the sides there, and I kind of get the urge to add a small dart on the side seam towards the bust. Looking at it again, those front darts are just too high.
I also wonder if the back is slightly long, but again, I may be fooled by the seam allowance not being turned in. The front actually looks a little short..
All in all, I think it looks good with the yoke and all, and the changes I need to make looks to be small tweaks. I have decided to make a new muslin (with sleeves) and add the extra inch to the mid front and back, instead of letting out the sides. Seeing where the seams of the sleeves will sit, I fear that it will be a tad tight across the back. So I need to try it with the sleeves attached. I will also try to add a bust dart to take up some of that extra on the sides there.
I am really enjoying this muslin business! It is way better to see possibilities in a mock-up, than loose complete faith in a garment went wrong.
And as always, tips and pointers, comments and constructive criticism are highly welcome :)
Wishing you all a splendid weekend!