Thursday 3 April 2014

The Hidden Gem dress (Vogue 1371)

Hellooooo!




While waiting for my lobsters to arrive for the Sew for Victory sew-along, I made a dress!
A while back I came across a gorgeous dress posted on the Willow homestead blog, and wanted to make it. I ordered the pattern the instant I finished reading said post, but didn't get around to sew it until spring arrived (last week). Norwegian winter doesn't call for much dress sewing, but now was a great time to do it.


Vogue 1371, designed by Tracy Reese.


The worst thing about this pattern must be it's envelope. All the wonderful pleating on the bodice is COMPLETELY lost in the fabric print, and I know I have seen this pattern before. Just never SEEN it. And it is a shame. So I decided to make it in a solid color to show off the details.
I chose a grey, inexpensive polyester fabric with good drape, just to try out the pattern for fit. Maybe not the wisest choice because the construction calls for vast amounts of pressing, and that's really hard with a fabric that melts. So I needed to use a press cloth and a lotta steam, and even then it just bounced back when I lifted the cloth. But it was doable, it just took time and effort.


A tiny bit of bling in the neck closing :)
A hidden gem!


The pattern went together nicely. However, I did make some small changes. First of all; I omitted the ginormous shoulder pads. The instructions tell you to gather under the bust and also on the back, but I wanted to just continue the pleats all the way down. The dress is described as a loose fitting garment so there was no issue with the bodice getting too tight with this alteration .Skirt and bodice are completed separately, and joined together last. I then figured out I didn't like the rather shapeless fit, and took it in about 2" in the sides. The bodice was then too wide for the skirt and there was some fiddling with the pleats again to make it match. The pleats furthest to the sides ended up wider at the bottom than on top, so not the best result. Not very noticeable, and an elegant save. I just call it artistic freedom.....heh.



 



I also got the wrong zipper, not the invisible kind. Insertion went kind of perfect (for once!!) if I must say so myself, but I didn't like how the puller was showing. So I covered it with another bow. It works :)




If I were to make this again (and I will!) I will lengthen the bodice a bit, because it is short. In the end I had to use 1/5 of an inch for seam allowance, and had I been busty it simply wouldn't fit. So if someone else wants to make this, that's my top tip. I also think this dress would look better with a larger/wider hem. Of course, I could be less lazy and just measure the pattern pieces before cutting, but you all know I am not that diligent.
At least I tried to be accurate and really take my time with the construction, so I am happy with that.
I also liked the finishing. It is unlined, but has french seams just about everywhere, and bias binding on neck and arm openings, so not a raw edge in sight!










Because of the low split in the back bodice, it was hard finding undergarments that wouldn't show. The pattern suggest a hook and eye to close it but I like the open slit effect. I guess I will need to get a low backed bra of some sort. Or just go without. I don't have much to throw around anyway!




All in all, very happy with my first go at this pattern. It is an easy, wearable and flattering style, and I think it is a pattern that can easily be altered and customized to one's liking. It can also be dressy or more casual with the right fabric choices, in silk and maybe with a bolero for evening, or a cotton version with a light cardigan for a more relaxed style. Endless possibilities!

So, have you got your spring sewing going? I see lots of dresses in the near future!



29 comments:

  1. Oh Siri, this is beautiful! It looks so classic and elegant. I must go find that pattern now :D

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    Replies
    1. Thank you Kristin!
      Yes, GO! Get it! It deserves to be made up in all kinds of gorgeous versions!

      Delete
  2. Really cute dress. Great idea adding the bow at the back to hide the zip pull.

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    1. Thank you!
      The bow does the trick, but next time I will just get the correct zipper. That bow is a bugger to fasten by one self, it is quite the contortionist act :D

      Delete
  3. This looks lovely on you! Really nice details. Good call removing the shoulder pads. :0)

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    1. Thanks Lauren ;)
      Yes pads had to go. I really didn't fancy looking like a bat from the 80s .......

      Delete
  4. Wow! It is gorgeous. Are you already plotting the next fabric choice?

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    1. Oh yes I am! I really enjoyed making this. I think it will be much better now that I've had a trial run :)

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  5. This is by far my favorite dress. I had not run across this pattern before but will definitely be on the hunt now. There are so many things I love about this dress, the pleats on the bodice, the bows (both front and back), the princess lines of the skirt. What a great job! It is a real beauty!

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    1. I loved it too, the moment I saw it :) If I hadn't seen it on that blog I never would have spotted this pattern. It does not look like much on the cover, but as you say it has really nice details :)

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  6. Wow! I love all the details of this dress! The pleats and bows, it's just amazing! Well done!

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  7. Wow! This dress is sooooo beautiful! It stylish,'s cute and fun, I think it's a garment with many possibilities too. You did a great job!

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    1. Thanks Rosy :)
      I really tried, and it paid off!

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  8. The dress is so pretty , who would have know from the pattern envelope. I think many times they are not the modern big 4 are not so attractive like many vintage pattern envelopes.
    I know what you mean about pressing polyester.
    Can't wait to see the lobsters.

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    Replies
    1. I agree, the vintage patterns are total EYECANDY!
      Makes you want every single one :D

      Polyester was an ill-behaved b*tch, but it is lovely and easy to wear. You can probably sleep in it and still look crinkle free in the morning!

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  9. This dress is really lovely Siri. The grey is so chic, I have no grey in my wardrobe at the moment, but you have inspired me to make something now! The fit is very flattering with a lovely drape. I agree the pleating is lost on a print, so using a plain colour really emphasises this. My favourite bit is your ingenious bow! :)
    p.s. The view from your house is spectacular and you seem to have missed the Saharan sand pollution that has blighted the UK sunshine over the last few days!

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    1. Grey is fabulous, actually! It looks good with every other color, and is really versatile like black, but without the drama :)

      I love my view, and in summer we have the sun shining upon us from sun-up til sun-down. Totally spoiled :) Sahara, huh? That doesn't sound like any fun... :( Hope it passes, and falls into the Atlantic!

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  10. Kjempefin!
    Og den var utrolig mye finere i grått enn i mønstrete stoff.

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    Replies
    1. Ja ikke sant? Håper på å lage flere av denne :)

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  11. I really love this dress, Siri! I think it's gorgeous from the front and the back. I adore the little bow details! I love the color you chose as well! :)

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    1. Thanks Kathy! I am really happy with how this one turned out, and now I have a me-made dress I will actually wear ;)

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  12. That dress is really lovely. It looks great, what an interesting pattern. You've made it beautifully.

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    1. Thank you so much! I am very happy with it and want to make more :)

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  13. Oh, it's just lovely! I think the changes that you made are fantastic, and the bow over the top of the zip is a really sweet touch. Here's wishing you lots of accommodating spring weather to enjoy it in!

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  14. Oh my goddess !!!! It's perfect ! Such of work !

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