Rockabilly circle skirt dress - pt2

I've been hard at work on my new dress today. I really wanted to get a move on and get it finished for our holiday trip which is coming up in a few days.

As discussed in the previous post, I felt the bodice cups needed padding and some support, so I looked through my stash to see if I had anything that could be used. I found a pair of foam shoulder pads I bougth ages ago. They were not very thick, so could easily be remodelled into bra cups.

I made a small dart in each pad, and stitched them shut. To reduce bulk, I trimmed out some of the fold on the inside, and whip stitched everything flat.

 The pads now mirrored the bust shape in the bodice and was ready to be attached.

First, I tacked the point of the bust dart, to the point of the pad, so the pad would not shift around inside the bra cup. I shaped the bodice smoothly over the pads, pinned them loosely in place and carefully catch stitched the pads to the inside of the cups, making sure not to catch the outside fabric.

I love catch stitching, it looks so couture!

I am really happy with how the bust improved by doing this. I also realized that I will not be able to wear a bra with this dress, because of the low cut back. So integrated cups are gold! The dress looks, and feel, so much better.

I also put in some boning in the side seams. I used plain plastic boning, 1 cm wide. I just stitched it to the seam allowance using a three-step zig-zig, and handtacked it down to the underlining. This simple step will hopefully stop the bodice from sagging and folding at the sides, keeping a smooth shape.

Lastly, I got the skirt back sorted to take up the excess at the waist. I basically just opened up the back seam, trimmed off about an inch on both edges, and sewed the back seam together again. I decided to continue my "couture detailing" with a hand picked zipper. I haven't done those before, but it looks wonderful! Almost impossible to spot :)

The much improved bust,
properly period, bullet silhouette!

All remaining now, is stitching the bodice lining to the waist, and hemming!

Rockabilly circle skirt dress - pt1

As I mentioned in my last post, I have a new sewing project going! One which really just partially involve a pattern, so it has been a bit daunting and exciting at the same time.

Ever since I made the striped beach outfit using the Mrs. Depew sun top pattern, I have had that top in my mind, because I always thought it would make an awesome dress bodice. Not long after the stripey sun top, I got hold of some fabric that was just screaming halterneck full skirt dress. But you know, winters came and dresses were not the priority (and to be honest, I was lacking skills), but I just couldn't forget about that dress.

Big bold florals!

Top pattern in question, Depew #1018.

So last week as I rummaged through the pattern stash, the sun top pattern emerged. Elvis hollered "It's now or never!!!" from the back of my mind, and I decided to just get on with it :)

The top obviously needed to be lenghtened a bit to reach my waist, but other than that I didn't do anything to it. I made a quick muslin with a zipper in the back to check the lenght, but I didn't attach a skirt to it. Nor did I bother with the bust trim. The top don't take much fabric and I had lots of the fashion fabric, so in the event of a small disaster I would be able to cut another.

The striped top is two layers of quilting cotton and is nice and sturdy. The dress fabric is very light, and it needed more structure, so I underlined it with cotton canvas. The bust trim is "party satin" (a midweigth fabric) and is backed with fusible interfacing. The bodice also has a layer of acetate lining next to the skin. I was debating on whether to put boning in, but I was so eagerly sewing, that it was kind of too late when the debating was over... Oh well. I can still get some boning done, at the back and sides. And you know what, I think I probably will. I also think the cups are too soft, and I really should put *something* into them, to "perk" them up a little (preferably boobs, but you know). Some foam would be swell, I just need to see what is available in the stash.

You can see the cup is slightly imploding. Miss Cardboard is obviously
lacking soft fleshy bits, but I feel the cups would benefit from some padding.

The upper edge of the cups caused me some struggles, as the interfaced trim bit across the bust is a double piece of satin with fusable. It is quite stiff and thick, and at the center front it got very bulky. I even had problems here with the cotton version. It's just so many layers that meet up in that seam. I graded and trimmed as much as I dared, and understitched the lining to the seam allowance and tacked it to the underlining layer all along the bust to keep it from flipping up. It's alright, but it took a lot of fiddling and pressing!

On to the skirt bit! I have never ever made a circle skirt of any kind, and was dreading the waist calculating. Since a great portion of the cut hole will be on the bias, it will stretch. Luckily, there is an online calculator for that, which I used. You basically plot in your waist size, and the calculator tells you the radius on your.. well, hole. My radius was apparently 12.5 cm.
My pattern piece ended up like so. I opted for a generous length as I had not yet settled on a specific skirt length. I made sure to include some for seam allowance on top, and also the hem. I think I want the skirt to at least cover my knees when standing.

My skirt is made up of three pieces, even though I could have cut two full half circles. The dress has a back zipper, so I figured I needed a back seam to set it in. I felt really brainy as I had it all figured out, with seam allowances for all three skirt pieces and everything! (Usually, those are the small details that just slip ones mind..) I underlined the skirt pieces too, but not with canvas, that would be too heavy. I had plenty of cotton batiste, which is light as kitten fluff, super smooth and just perfect for the job. It also made the colours pop on the white background.

With all six pieces cut for the skirt (minus the hole), I basted the doubles together, and sewed the three seams between the panels. I decided to just trust the calculator, and braved the scissors to the waist hole. Just as I finished the cut, it dawned on me that I hadn't deducted the seam allowance for the waist seam!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh no!

I was quick to sew a row of staystitching around the hole, because I was not having any more room in that waist, by letting it stretch even a tiny fraction! I have now basted the skirt to the dress, and I think I can do a little trick with the back seam in the skirt, to take care of that extra room in the waist.

When attaching the skirt, I also noticed that the side seams on the skirt and bodice don't line up. This didn't even cross my mind when planning the dress. I just assumed the side seam was at the side of the top, but it actually sits a bit to the front. And I made it worse when I lenghtened the bodice. So the skirt side seam now sits 1.5 inches to the back. I really don't mind too much, because the print is so busy. But if I were to make this dress again, I'd adjust the pattern pieces

I am actually glad it happened, because those are the things that you learn so much from :)

Ooopsie....! Fantastically non-matching seams :P

The dress is now hanging a day or two, to let the hem settle. Then I'll try to get it all sorted, with cup padding, maybe some boning, inserting a zipper, and then the hemming itself (good grief that's a long hem).

Wish me luck!

All I want for Christmas is a...... plaid dress?

Ho ho ho, everyone!
Yes, it's drawing near now, isn't it?

When it finally dawned on me just how few weeks there are left until the holidays, I put my Victorian stuff aside for a bit. You have to make priorities, right?

You see, for the last couple of years, I've had grand plans of a plaid Christmas dress of some sort. But every year has been the same; so many plans, so VERY little time! Since becoming unemployed, that is not the case this year, and I will  finally (hopefully) have a me-made dress for Christmas! Yay :)
I opted for a dress not too dressy, just classic lines and a bit of grown-up appeal.

When choosing the pattern, I wanted one that had something new. I have never made anything with plaids before, so you would think that should be enough novelty for one project... But noooo.
Princess seamed dress for the win!

This is Maudella #5204, in a 35"bust.
I cannot find a year on it, but it's probably mid-sixties.

I think princess seams was why I initially bought this pattern in the first place, because the cover art design is not something that awakens my desire, if you catch my drift. Man, those ladies have properly sloping shoulders!! Luckily, the pattern inside was not made for nearly as extreme anatomical features, and my first muslin fit me beautifully with no alterations other than adding a smidge in centre front and back panel. I didn't take any photos before I took apart the pieces, to use as pattern for my fashion fabric.

Now, on to the cutting. I tried to be a brain-monster and get it all right, but you know how when you really concentrate on something, another detail that is usually a no-brainer goes wrong? Right.
So I managed to match the horisontal lines, but as I discovered when assembling the six main pieces, the two front sides, and the two back side pieces did not quite mirror each other. It is not anything glaringly obvious, but it is kind of annoying. I have extra fabric left, but I am still debating whether I'll make the jacket to match. I'll take some measurements of the faulty side piece, and if I can use it for the jacket, I might re-do. Otherwise, it is just a big waste of fabric for such a cosmetic flaw. So I am trying to live with it for now :)

Doh-moment!

I am sorry for this rubbish phone-photos, but you get the general idea. This is the back half of the dress on my ironing board, and as you can see, those two sides are not "on target". The front is better,

My plaid is a lovely wool blend fabric, that is nice and light. I will obviously need to line it because of the itch-factor, but I think I'll be fine on that one. My plan is to just make up a second dress in lining fabric and drop it inside. How hard can it be, right?

It's panning out to be a fun project with lots of new things to learn, and hopefully I'll have a finished dress to show you shortly! In the meanwhile, I wish you lots of success on your Christmas preparations ;)

Toodles!

Butterick #5880 - the dress that changed it's mind.

Helluuuu!

A couple of posts ago I mentioned there was a dress to be blogged, and if you've been here before I think you might recognize it :)

Remember this one?

I started this dress in early June, but I cut a size too small and it ended up in a bag.
It really was a huge disappointment, as I had saved these precious three yards of fabric for a special dress, just waiting for that perfect pattern. I pondered a while on what to do with it once the disaster was a fact, and just moved on to other things.

Pretty details :)

A couple of weeks ago, I decided to pull it out and finish it. It was bound to be a pretty dress, so better to sell it, than to have it in two halves in a bag somewhere. Since the plan was to take someones money in exchange, I kind of put my soul in it. It is fully lined with french-seamed cotton voile, I added a waist stay, and did decorative stitches by hand along the neck- and armhole edges. Even tea-dyed the embroidery floss! I hemmed it with me-made bias tape, invisibly, by hand.

I really went to town...!

When it was done, I put it on a hanger and admired it. It was my best work to date. It was perfect.
Just for the hell of it, I decided to try to put it on. I had my underbust corset handy, but pulled the dress on without it. I knew I could get it on with the side zip open.

I slowly pulled up the zip. And it closed all the way! What the ....???

It fitted me, like a glove. Perfect fit! How on Gods green earth did that happen???
Obviously, the dress changed it's mind and decided to fit me, after all :)
(OR; all joking aside; I think yoga is what has happened. I have practiced every day for nearly three months, and I have probably toned up. Who would have thought?)

The only curse now, is that I tossed the (alterated) pattern pieces. Ah the irony!
And needless to say; the dress is no longer for sale ;)

Something's not right here...!

Here's a little update on my mailorder sundress I was teasing you with many weeks ago!

Remember this?

The dress is actually in a state of finished, hemmed and all. However, upon fitting and "testdrive" I just felt it was all kinds of wrong. What in my mind would be an awesome polka-dotted swishy flared sundress, turned out to be a rather dull frumpy thing.

This is my un-impressed face.
I realize I am not helping on the frump-factor.
Whatevs.

The front buttoning extends too far up the bodice, and is way too modest. WAY.
The only way to wear it is with the top button open, which leaves me with a collar/lapel with a button hole in it. Pfft. I also have issues with the bodice. It is not in any way fitted. With my glasses on, I CAN see from the cover drawing that it is indeed "blousy" but I always get distracted by the tiny waists on those drawings, and my brain goes "-Yup, fitted!". And to make matters even worse, I added "some" in the waist 'cause the pattern said 34" bust, and that usually means 28" waist. Which I don't have.

Where's my swishy skirt, then??!

I also envisioned a fuller skirt. On the envelope it looks wonderfully-full, but in real life it's just a slightly wide (?) A-line. I can live with that, but still... *sob*
Maybe I could wear a petticoat (that I *still* need to make), that could give it a little lift. Doubt it.

Right. Let's see, what else? Oh, yes, the buttons. I thought upon buying these grey fabric covered ones, that it was a small miracle to find some in a matching grey! Probably was, but it doesn't change the fact that they are boring. They just disappear. This dress calls for something with a bit more presence.

Here you can just see the hot pink pocket lining.

And finally, the collar.
When cutting my fabric pieces, I had the remnants from my shockingly pink shirt fabric up on the table. I decided to line my pockets with it, and aaaaaalmost went for a pink collar too. Should've just dunnit. The collar now, is the same story as the buttons. It just blends into the boring-ness. Actually, I saw Mrs. Ooobop's new dress today, and was smacked in the face by her contrasting collar! Have a look! It's just what my dress lacks (that, and fabulous shoes, fuller skirt, petticoat, hot city night etc.etc.) What reason did I have for deciding against the pink? Well, I didn't "want to limit the styling options by putting a color onto that neutral base". Really!? (I deserve this boring dress, for that thought alone!)

The backside is actually the most favourable bit...

In any event, I have decided not to hate on The Frump, but just improve it! Yes, I will try to refashion it, and see if I can make it a little closer to its imaginary cousin in my head :) Also, I now regret fully lining the thing.  But it should be doable, non?
If you have any ideas, tips, tricks or other creative input, you are most welcome to share!

Right. Onwards!

Spring for Cotton Ceylon

Hello all :)

So here it is, the final version of the Colette Ceylon dress!
You are probably sick of hearing of it by now, and I am quite frankly sick of the whole dress. Making three versions of the same pattern back to back will do that to you, but never mind that:)

This is made with 100% organic cotton with a tree and leaf print, and a wee bit of contrasting baby corduroy (also all cotton). I opted for flat plastic buttons this time, as the self covered kit ones were just crappy. I also added a little to the length, as I wanted my knees covered (she said, sounding 98 years old). Yes, I am a lady after all!!

Trustwothy buttons, with a vintage vibe.

For a spring dress, I definitely like the green one better. It is so cheery and vibrant. This just feels like fall to me, but that's alright. I do like how the contrasting yoke is great for brooch display, though :)
The main fabric is rather light weigth, and I don't think it drapes as nicely as the seersucker. I also still feel that the print is too large for my liking.

I was also planning on having a belt for this one, in the contrast color. But as faith wanted it, a buckle was no where to be found, so that obviously didn't happen. I think it might look good, so I'll still be on the look-out for a suitable buckle.

At some point in the process, I was debating whether I should also do the sleeves in the darker color. I decided against it this time around, but on future Ceylons, it may very well be a nice addition to the dress.

So now, let's move on from this Ceylon business!

Some progress, and a dash of doubt.

Yoo hoo!

So, there was some progress over the weekend with the Spring for Cotton Ceylon dress.
I am nearly done, just buttonholes, hemming and finding the right buttons left.
Sewing it up went swimmingly, and I might have broken the Pinhouse record for speediest construction of any garment.

But then I went to try it on. And as it turns out; I hate it. Yes. I do.
Or rather, hate is a strong word. I don't love it.

The color on the yoke comes out a little darker in the photo,
but you get the general idea.

I decided to make a contrasting yoke out of some corduroy left from the Fall for Cotton challenge, but I don't think it looks as good as I imagined. It's just... well, not very springy.
It most definitely looks autumnal to me. Also, having that dark color agains my face, made me look like a sheet. On the flip-side, fall will eventually arrive and maybe the dress will make sense? Here's to hoping :)

I'll just get it finished, and photographed properly and call it a job done.

On a more positive (and springy) note, I started a new knit!

It is the Lavenda #915, or Rainbow jumper. I chose a slightly different palette than my recent makes, but all colors are on my chart of Me-colors, so stickin' with the rules (let's just say, more Simplicity#3688 pants are coming!).

I haven't seen this jumper around a lot, but I think I spotted it on someones blog recently. I cannot seem to find it again. If you have made this, please let me know. I already made alterations to the pattern, so maybe that's why it isn't as popular as, say the Victory jumper. There was no increases from the ribbing to the armhole shaping, and I found that a bit odd. But we'll se how it all pans out :)

That's all from my end today! Now, off to enjoy some gardening :)
Enjoy your day!

Colette Ceylon muslin #2

Hello people! I've had the best Easter break ever!
Ten uninterupted days of sewing bliss. No rushing, just pure enjoyment. Aaahhh....!

And here is the result; my second version of the Colette Ceylon!
Early on I kind of loved it, and decided to treat it like a final version. I wanted to check out how it would behave with buttons, so I fitted it with all 16 self covered buttons. The insides were all finished with Berthas overlock stitch, and look super neat.

The fabric is actually a good quality cotton seersucker duvet cover in a super pistachio green. I got it many years ago from my mothers auntie Mary, and I never took it out of it's packaging 'cause it was too short for my duvets. It feels nice to make use of it, especially since it turned out so great. I am sure auntie Mary would approve, God rest her soul.

I made just a few alterations from the first version. The sleeves were widened just a bit, and I finished them with bias binding. I took some of the curve out of the midriff piece, cause let's face it; I am not that curvy. I also added one and a half inch to the overall width of the dress, to fix the riding up issue. I can see from some of the pictures that it still looks like it wants to migrate upwards in the back. I might try shorten the midriff a little on the final dress.
I decided to do nothing to the armscye, and I think the fit is good as is.

I really like all the small gather details on the bodice front and back, it makes a great shape and adds interest to a plain colored dress. I am still making another one in printed fabric for the Spring for Cotton sewalong, and I am excited to see it in some print.

I also decided to start signing my me-mades, so I embroidered a little S inside the neck facing. Just a little finishing touch, and something to identify my dresses when I am old and grey :)

So did you have a great Easter? Did you make something fabulous?

Ceylon muslin #1

So the Ceylon dress is officially on the way now, and I've made the first muslin.
I traced the pattern in a size 6, based on my bust measurement. This way the dress would be proportionate to my upper body, and fit through the shoulders, neck opening etc.

Final fabric sample.

Earlier, I often chose pattern size based on my waist measurement, and ended up with more fitting issues in the bodice as it would be too big. Patterns with a 30" waist is usually for a 39" bust, or there abouts. If I were to follow my measurements for the waist with this pattern, I would have gone with a size 10, which is for a 30 1/2 " waist (my actual waist measure). The finished garment would then end up with a 40 1/2" bust, and a very dissapointed seamstress.

I have a small bust and narrow hips, so in this equation it is my waist that is unproportionate, and knowing this makes fitting more easy for me now. Knowing your body's uniqe caracteristics and proportions can help you tremendously.

So this is Ceylon size 6 right out of the envelope. As you can see, it is a close fitting garment, but I honestly didn't expect it to fit my waist without alterations. I will be wearing appropriate undergarments with this dress, and I don't think I will add much to the waist. I want it to be "hugging" but not restrictive.

Speaking of waist, there is quite a dramatic shaping in the midriff section, and I think that curve is slightly off in my muslin. It hits just below my natural waist, and rides up, creating a crease (see picture above).
I am a bit unsure whether I should shorten the midriff, move the curve in the midriff, or shorten the back piece and thus raising the waistline.

Curvy waist!

The sleeves are obviously to tight, and I might scoop out the armscye just a little bit in the back. I was also wondering if I should broaden the shoulders half an inch, so that the sleeve seam would hit further out, but I don't know if I need to. The puffed sleeve heads blur the lines, and my shoulders are plenty broad enough, and I might not need to emphasize that trait any more.

As for the construction of the dress, it went together fabulously. The instructions are very simple to follow, no tricky bits. I believe the most challenging part of this dress is all of those buttons with their matching buttonholes. I had no need to put 16 buttons in my muslin, so I used a jacket zipper. I made sure to position the zipper where the buttons and button holes would line up, so there wouldn't be any fitting surprices later on.

So, there it is! I really like the dress, dropped waist and all. I also quite dig the zipper option, allthough the final Sew for Cotton-version will have buttons. I might make a wearable muslin next, with a zipper closure.

As always, your valued opinions are most welcome below ;)