Victorian inspiration - or how I chose my project.

Since I decided to just jump in, and make a historical outfit, my biggest conondrum has been choosing what to make. I mean, with all the breathtakingly gorgeous day dresses, walking suits, evening gowns, ball gowns, petticoats, corsets, chemises, hats, gloves, capes etc. etc. from all different eras - HOW DO YOU CHOOSE???

Clichè, I know, but I decided to follow my heart. I took note of what made my mouth dry with admiration, the things that made me go "Oooo!" out loud, and spill my coffee. Mostly, I found, this happened to be stuff from the late Victorian era. I like big butts, apparenly, so the bigger the bustle, the more sweaty my hands.

Portrait of Baroness von Derwies, 1871.
Example of a first bustle era dress style.

Bustles first came into fashion in 1870. The wide hooped skirts of the 1860s started to change, as the fullness migrated towards the back. The skirts were gathered up with tabs and buttons to form a pouf, and the wire bustle was introduced to support the skirt.

An example of a 1870s wire bustle.
The Metropolitan museum of Art.

In this first bustle period, there were still quite a lot of fullness at the front as well as the back. In 1875, a more slender silhouette appeared. The wire bustle was put aside, and sleek lines with tight fitted bodices and narrower  trained skirts became fashion.

Slender, Natural form silhouette.

 Around 1880, the bustle was reintroduced in France, but it wasn't until 1883 that it took off as the new silhouette. This time, the bustle was even bigger, and formed almost a straight angle to the back. In the late 80s, the bustle again diminished as the skirts widened, and fullness migrated down the back. By the mid 1890s the bustle was mostly gone, and fashion evolved towards what would become the Edwardian silhouette.
This is of course a very simplified summary of the bustle period, as there were many details to womens clothing and fashion during this short space of time.


Right, now. Where was I? Oh yes, the outfit!
I tried to pinpoint what I would like to do in my outfit. Would I attend a ball? Or a park picnic? Would there be walking involved? Dancing, perhaps? Indoors/outdoors? Summer/winter?
Another consideration other costumers focus on, is what kind of person you portray. Working class women dressed very differently than an upper middle class lady. If I was doing reenactment, this could be a concern, but my focus is just to try recreate something that I love the look of, and that is within my budget material wise. And of course, there is the skill range.

See more photos, and read the story of this dress
 and it's wearer here.

I have now landed on something that isn't too dressy (if you could ever say that about victorian clothing) or complicated, but no less lovely! I want to do a walking suit/ travelling ensemble as my first make.
And it will be heavily inspired by this 1887 outfit, designed by Herman Rossberg.

I love the muted colors, that show off the design elements. I find it very elegant and mature, but not frumpy. I like that it can be dressed up with a set of more fancy sleeve cuffs, collar and front insert. And I really love the simple, yet intricate soutache trim. Here you can clearly see an example of a grand bustle of the mid 1880s. That butt is huge!!

The original design has two different bodices, and despite how much I love both styles, I think I'll be making just the short one, with the small back pleat detail.

I am probably in way over my head here, but I want to see if  it can be done! I am not in any hurry, so if you are expecting to see a finished outfit by the end of next month, don't hold your breath. There is lots of research to be done, petticoats and wire bustles to be made! If anyone has pattern suggestions, for any part of the ensemble, I would really appreciate it. For the bodice, I have set my sights on Truly Victorian #466 or #463. They both seem to fit the bill, with some alterations.

The skirt is giving me a headache, there seems to be concealed pleats at center front and sides, and some straight panels. And then there's that fabulously draped overskirt with the assymetric bustle.

So what do you think? (Other than how insane I clearly must be!)
I already got most of the fabric for it, but I fear I'll have to use two tones for the skirts. Calculating yardage for this thing is not my strong suit, and suggestions online range an aweful lot. I fear the skirt is a major fabric hog. The muslin will answer that question, no doubt! I have nearly 8 meters, but it's most likely not enough. I found a gorgeous wool gabardine on sale, and bought what was left. So we'll see :)

Fun times ahead!

I'm taking the plunge!!

I've never been the typical girly girl. I don't wear dresses most days, and I probably spend less time in the bathroom than my better half. I rarely pour over fashion magazines, to get the latest look (obviously). Nor does my closet look like a party.

Phantom of the Opera costume, 2004.
Louisiana Art Museum.

But when I see historical clothing (17th, 18th and 19th century), the frilly, romantically clad, corseted, drowned in bows and lace-monster in me awakens. I just can't help myself. In high school I had art history classes, and they were some of my favorites.

French silk gown 1778-80, MET

So naturally, I've been following along on some excellent costuming blogs the last few years. American Duchess was probably my first, and has been a well of inspiration since. And when you find one, you are sure to bump into more, like The Laced Angel, The Dreamstress, Historical Sewing, Before the Automobile, Wearing History and many more. These are some incredible talented ladies, and I think you will appreciate their skills even if you aren't into historical fashion.

Robe a la Francaise 1760-70, MET.

The most obvious hurdle for even starting making such garments, is "where the h*ll do you wear them?" This has been what has kept me from falling down this historical rabbit hole long time ago. And I am sure others have had this very thought, too. There just isn't any occasion to wear a full Victorian outfit around where I live. So how do you justify making something that will mostly hang in the back of your closet? Not to mention the cost and the time consumed on such large projects.

Lovely Lauren of American Duchess
(I am very partial to this style of dress btw)

Well, I haven't been able to answer these questions until now. I've come to the conclusion that I don't need a reason to do it. other than I really want to! And if there aren't any events to wear costumes, well maybe I need to make one happen? There might just be more lone seamstresses sitting around, looking for a reason to "jump in". Also, if you disregard the wearing-bit, there is also the inevitable learning process. it is a unique opportunity to up your sewing- and fitting skills. Just by reading costuming blogs, I've already learnt a lot about construction techniques and also the evolution of clothing and fashion through the ages. And it is very interesting.

Gorgeous Merja of  Before the Automobile
I love fluffy butts, apparently:)

So now, that I have decided to take the plunge, the quest for choosing an era starts :)
I've had the hardest time with this one, as I find I kind of love everything!
But I think I have managed to narrow it down to the late Victorian era (1870-90ish). And I tell myself, this is just where to start. Who knows what other eras I'll eventually end up making?

Making a historical outfit, one has to start at the very foundation, the underpinnings. So be prepared to see some of those on this channel shortly :)

Scandinavian fashion anno 1919

Hello everyone!

I just cannot believe my luck lately! Look what I found while thrifting!

Look at the fabulous bewinged hat!

Evening silk gowns with fur or lace trim.

The coat on the right has 25(!) buttons.
You wouldn't want to be in a hurry
while buttoning those.

These are four issues of Nordisk Mønster Tidende, or Nordic Pattern Times, published late winter of 1919 in Norway, Denmark, Finland and Sweden. This weekly magazine was first published in Denmark in 1874, by the danish gentleman Carl Aller and his wife Laura. It was a huge success, and after only two months, even the Royal Danish court was on the subscribers list!

Over the next 20 years business expanded to Sweden and Norway, and was the first magazine in Scandinavia to have a front cover printed in color, in 1892. It even excist today as Femina in Denmark and Sweden, and KK in Norway, and still remain one of the most influential womens magazines in Scandinavia.

After what I have been able to find out, these these printed issues are quite rare nowadays. I would love to own more of them.

Everyday (!) wear for the young ladies, and some underthings for the mature.

I really like those pleated coats (left). Lots of fabulous fur collars too.

I am in total awe over these issues. The details in the illustrations are magnificent, and the vast number of patterns issued every week is astonishing. Each magazine is like a pattern catalog, but there are about five free sewing patterns included in a nested pattern sheet. There is also a weekly menu, complete with recipes, lots of tips for the household, different craft projects in embroidery, crochet, lace and even tatting. This is quite surprising to me, considering the end of WW1 was just months ago. It seemed that the effects of years of war was mostly seen in the kitchen. When reading through the menues, you get the feeling that it was slim pickings.

Also very interesting to see the incredibly complex craft patterns described as quick and easy!!

Easy lace for a chemise neckline.

It would seem like these magazines were for the Lady of a certain standard, with housemaids and enough time and money on her hand to fill her days with embroidery and tatting :) And pattern shopping! I wish one could still order these patterns, just look at all these beautiful coats!

Pleated walking suit. I adore that jacket!

Lovely young maidens in their winter attire.

Silk and fur in abundance.
Buttons and pleats, too!

I love flicking through these issues, looking at what was the high fashion this year. It is amazing to see all the little details of the outfits. Decorative pleating, buttons, lace inserts and trims in different materials. Every pattern is described in the catalog, stating what materials are needed and yardage. There's also line drawings of every model.

Such lovely underthings :)

Although this is not an era I would necessarily copy for my own everyday wardrobe, there is loads of inspiration to be found in these images. I am also inspired by the effort that went into every garment in these times. Just a simple thing like a short underbodice or a chemise, was elaborately decorated and just stunningly gorgeous. I would feel like a queen everyday if my underwear drawer was filled with things like these!

I hope you found these images inspiring!

Just as a quick reminder, or if you're new to this blog; remember to join the give-away!
For a chance to win one of two prizes, just follow the link above, and share your fondest Birthday memory with us all! I'd love to hear from you :)  (Give-away is now closed)

Machine embroidered pockets - a tutorial

This whole thing emerged in my head while making my RAF trousers. Of course, at that point they were only trousers. Quite theme-less:)

The original Simplicity #3688 has got no pockets, but my rear really benefit from some kind of embellishment. High waisted things without, just end up up as a whole lotta unflattering flatness.

I drafted the pattern pieces for the pockets myself, but I also wanted them to have some decoration. I noticed that my trousers was the perfect match for my closet-dwelling Smooth aviator blouse, so it had to be wings!

Now, for this project, I could have drawn the design myself. So any image will work, self-made or "borrowed". If you draw something, you need to scan and save to your computer. If you find something online, download and save. So this would be your step 1.

Step 2 is prepping your paper on which you will print the image. Regular pattern tissue/tracing paper is nice and thin for your machine to embroider upon, but it can be tricky for your printer to feed through. So, take a single sheet of printing paper and tape a piece of tracing paper ontop. The size you need will depend on your image, but there is no need to cover the whole sheet. You only need to tape the upper and lower edge of the tissue. Place the sheet into your printer (the right way). It may be a good idea to have some extra paper inserted, I know my printer is a little fussy, and have an easier time grabbing the individual sheet if there is a stack of them in.

Step 3, open the image file and choose print. In the printing menu you will be able to adjust the positioning of the image in the preview window, and so on. I adjusted the side margins inwards so that there were sufficient space around the image. This is helpful when you attaching your paper piece to the fabric. When you're happy, print.

Step 4, carefully remove your tissue from the printer paper, and pin it onto your fabric piece. I made the embroidery before any cutting, or folding of edges or any of that.

Step 5, baste the printed tissue to your fabric and remove pins.

Baste close to edge.

Step 6, start sewing!
My image was rather intricate with all the feathers, so I made several passes over them. Start with the outline and just follow along all edges, and then filling in the "fatter lines". Go slow!

Slowly does it.
(Take breaks and stretch your neck!!)

I didn't worry about filling it in too perfectly, but if I were to make this design again, I would maybe use a thicker thread. I used regular cotton sewing thread. But again, it all depends on your design. It can also be useful to play around with your machine settings before cracking on with the final product. Check if you've got the correct tension and stitch length. If you've got a design with straighter shapes and thicker lines, you might be able to use a small zig zag stitch for example. Make some samples on a scrap first.

When your done, peel away the tissue gently. If you need to, use a pair of tweezers to get the small bits. Also remove the basting stitches. Et voilà! Embroidered pocket fabric. You can now go ahead and actually make the pocket,
and stick it onto your garment!

The navy ring is hand embroidered on.
The rest is Bertha:)

This method is also useful if you need to transfer something for hand embroidery. I don't own any good marker tool that creates a fine enough line, or can be easily removed. So I just use a thread matching the fabric color, trace the shape with my sewing machine, and continue embroidering by hand. It is great for small initials and other simple designs. That way, the markings don't get fudged while you handle the fabric, and are totally invisble after it has been covered by embroidery floss.

I hope you found this useful :)

1940s suit inspiration

After having that major sewing spur over the Easter holidays, my sewing has slowed down drastically. I blame my job, I have been working graveyard hours this last week, starting at 0300 in the mornings and working extra hours after the regular 8, so I don't feel like squeezing any sewing in on top of all that.

But that does not mean I don't think about it!
I suddenly realized that the deadline for the Spring for Cotton sewalong is just a couple of weeks away, and I best get sewing that final Ceylon dress. I feel it will be fine, I have had two test runs already and don't think there will be any unforseen problems with that one.

Lately, I have been thinking alot about suits. I think it was Lauriana, at Petit Main Sauvage, that awoke my interest initially with this image of a fabulous ensemble from the fifties.
I was also watching Foyle's war over easter, and I always get 40s fashion urges after seeing it.

So I went searching online for some more inspiration. And there's lots!!
This first image is rather an iconic one and turns up "everywhere" 1940s fashion is discussed. Four lovely stylish ladies walking down the street, turning heads no doubt. I especially like the jacket on the far right, with the belted waist, the sharp lapels and two tone collar. The short sleeved bolero jacket is lovely too, and the dress underneat has some beautiful underbust gathers and just a great slim silhouette.

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There seemed to be a great variety of lapel shapes and detailing like gathers, pintucks and different pocket flaps and buttoning. Some were heavier, more utilitarian pieces, while others were more dressy, made of lighter fabrics. More suitable for a night out dancing, than running errands.

(All following photos belongs to http://www.osfcostumerentals.org/)

Nice rounded lapels, and padded shoulders
 that put emphasis on the small waist.

Plenty of buttons and a lovely neckline.

I think this is my favorite lapel shape.
This  suit has a distinct military flavor to it.

Lots of interesting details, and a rather unusual color.
I wonder if it is a faux belt, sewn onto the jacket
and not actually closing at the front.

Just a fabulous chic jacket.
It looks to be very well made.
Allthough it has padded shoulders, it is not the typical sharp 40s shape.

The three following pieces are your more dressy ones. The cream bolero suit is gorgeous with its trumpet sleeves and clean lines. The grey one has a wonderful drape at the waist, and the light blue one has dramatic shoulders and an interesting darted neckline. The embroidery is stunning.

I love the color on this one.
The belted waist looks wonderful and the jacket has
pintucked shoulders and waist that create fullness at the bust.

I would really like to make a suit for myself. Or maybe two! There are so many lovely options. Womens two piece suits makes for a very put together look, and I think they have many uses. Dressed up or down with accessories, a plain suit is very versatile. I also feel I am that "grown up" now that I could use a suit or two! I couldn't find a picture, but I envision a short sleeved plaid version for summer in a linen blend perhaps?

What about you? Could you see yourself in a suit? Or do you regularly rock one?

Start spreadin' the news....!

I'm entering todaaaaayyyyy!!!!

Have you heard? The best ever sew-along is announced over at Lucky Lucille,
The Spring for Cotton sewalong! YAY!

I participated in last years Sew for Victory, and had a hoot! If you didn't see it, I made my Lobster playsuit. I also was a part of the Fall for Cotton challenge, and loved that one too, even if I didn't finish in time or ever posted decent photos of the dress. No matter :)

This sewalong was honestly perfect timing, as I need a kick up the backside to tackle dress sewing again, in time for warmer weather. I have an annual trip coming up in late May, with the Norwegian Sportscar Club, and need some great outfits for it.

I wore some me-mades on last years trip and got lots of compliments, and that is always fun. Here I am in my Lobster suit, and although I have no photographic evidence of me IN our car, you'll just have to take my word for it. We always have a lot of fun on these trips, and it is a highlight of the season.

The lady on the right is also a sewing fanatic, so
naturally, we had lots to talk about!

Our little trooper, who takes us to all kinds of
lovely locations.

Hanging out, looking very cold.
Which I was. This is the 2013 trip.

So, are you all entering the sewalong? I am! Even got the fabric already, just need the perfect pattern. I have a 40s dress in mind, hoping I'll have something suitable in my pattern collection :)
Let the planning begin!

First flakes falling!

Finally, the first few flakes of snow are falling here in Norway-land.
Well, there are of course places further north in our small, but long country, that has gotten snow several weeks ago, but that will not stop me from doing all sorts of happy-dancing!! I looooove snow!!!

For the time being, it is not much, and temps are just around freezing point, so granted, this snow will not last, but it certainly is proof that winter IS coming!

We have a saying here in Norway, that all Norwegians are born wearing skis (that will explain my childless state). So I cannot contain myself, and have decided to celebrate winters arrival and future skiing prospects, with some lovely, snowy vintage inspiration! First off, fabulous mid-century art deco posters. Don't you just love these?

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This gorgeous siren obviously loves her snow as much as me.  Look, she hears cherubs!!!
 I would too if I looked this fabulous when skiing!
(if you look closely, it's actually a little devil!)

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Speaking of looking fab, check out these spiffy ensembles from winter 1937-38 Montgomery Wards! If you fancy an interesting read, why don't you check out the history of  womens sportswear as told by the Vintage Traveler, where this image was borrowed :)

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Fabulous skiing ensembles from the 1930s.

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I wouldn't mind having my picture taken by this dapper French skier either, me thinks ;)

This is ski sport pioneer, early aviator and inventor, Étienne Banau-Varilla, at the 1936 Winter Olympics.

I think his outfit is outta this world..... Invent me a time machine, Étienne ;)

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For those of you still on the fence about the awesome Knit for Victory challenge hosted by Tasha at By Gum By Golly, how 'bout a spectacular skier sweater? I think I need one of these!

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I'll have this one! Gives me an excellent opportunity to wear my wood work goggles.....

Joking aside, this is a fantastic sweater.

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No ski-related post written by a Norwegian, would ever be complete without making fun of our neighbors, the Swedes. They clearly have no idea. This gender confused gentleman is stomping on the other folks skis, wearing a dead animal. My bet is; he's not there to ski, but to make a pass at Charlie Chaplin on the left there, later on at the afterski.

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Last inspiration pic doesn't have an ounce of snow in it, but who can resist Marilyn sand skiing in peep-toe sandals? Adorable...

So, how about you? Are you ready for winter yet? I say, bring it on!